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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 10:02 pm
Posts: 839
Hi gang!

Well today is D day! I've got some funds together and treated myself to some Hammerite rust remover gel, zinc primer, normal primer and some red oxide primer.

Now.. this rust remover gel.. supposedly goes back to bare metal - and from that, I think it would be reasonable to conclude that all traces of rust will vanish -leaving just the pitting.

Now I've had the phone off the bottom of the front sub frame (when I say phone I mean that slightly phone shaped bit bolted to the sub frame and the passenger footwell). Covered in rust it was, so wire brushed it the best i could with the angle grinder and drill, then hand wire brushed it the best I could, dremelled it....

Applied the rust remover gel, followed the instructions, kept agitating and applying more... Did it remove anything? Hell no!!!

So.. what am I doing wrong? - It's as iff the stuff doesn't actually do anything.. it doesn't even have safety instructions on it or hazard warnings so it can't be that potent / strong.

Any other ideas or should I just brush it the best I can and then prime it?

Saffles


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 11:28 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 6:58 pm
Posts: 739
This is amazing,i,am actually at the moment derusting a few areas on my 1974 Triumph and i,ve aways used Kurust which is like milk,pure white and like milk,you apply it and it turns blue then black,its very good and has to be used very thinly or it will run and make a real mess its like painting with water.
How i treat rust is that i scrape it back as much as i can and and get clean metal around the affected area,sometimes difficult to do,but its worth it as you need to get to the very edges of the rust and not just what you can actually see.
I then prime it and either Hammerite it or Hammerite underseal if needed,let everything dry then coat everything in Waxoyl.
Do remember this is ONLY if the rust is visable,rust as you know is a menace and if its rusting from the inside/out then its more of a problem as you need to stop the rust spreading from the inside/out and that gets very tricky with things like sills/box sections.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 11:27 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 10:02 pm
Posts: 839
Hi

Yes i tried kurust but to be honest, i wasn't overly trusting of the dark blue colour thing being a permanent treatment against the rust. Something just didn't seem right about it.

I also used Hammerite Rust Remover gel yesterday.. apparently brings it back to bare metal.. except that there was still loads of rust showing!

So I went back to halfords and bought more wire brushes for the grinder and drill. The bonus with the drill is that it spins in both directions so that when you're working near and edge, you can have it spinning off the edge instead of against it - the angle grinders are lethal when hitting and edge. Several months back mine caught an edge, flipped off it (and out of my hand) bounced around the ground before landing right next to my ear - EEK! I soon started using the 90 degree handle again lol.

Anyhow today i wire brushed the hell out of this bit of metal (the phone shaped bit bolted onto the front sub frame) and then hit it with jenolite.. now oddly it then looked rustier than ever after using it but as per instructions i wiped it off and then painted over it with (zinc) primer. It's now in the shed drying and will get finished tomorrow.

Then I will work on the front sub frame and other misc rust spots. Got plenty of underseal and waxoyl now so hopefully this will put an end to all the rusting. What I then need to do is the other bits like wish bones, shocks and brake calipers... oh and the rear end of the car including that sub frame :rolleyes:

Not entirely sure how to do the top side of the sub frames.. the last time i removed a front sub frame the two massive bolts snapped. I got the sub frame but half the bolts were left in the chassis of that car. If that happened to this car I would be proper stuffed. For the time being (and just to get the car road worthy) I think I'll just do the underside of the sub frames and worry about the top side later. As long as I can get everything underneath undersealed and waxoyl'd then i can get on with the engine side of things and put it through the MOT!

The ECU is shot.. which is the reasson the cooling fans have not been working so I am going to use an arduino processor and temp probe to get around that and activate the fans that way. Not ideal but it will have to do..


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